2024
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2024
提供略带地中海口音的法国美食的餐厅。
一个在我们的首都越来越少见的特点:Taillevent和Tour d'Argent一样,是那些属于一个家族的伟大餐厅之一,昨天是Vrinats家族,今天是Gardiniers家族。这个地方以前是莫尼公爵的专用酒店,简直是太豪华了。至于美食,自2002年以来,在阿兰-索利维尔斯(Alain Soliveres)的指导下,它延续了某种法国高级美食的传统理念,偶尔会带有一点地中海的口音。莳萝柠檬汁蟹肉酱、圣埃斯泰夫葡萄酒兰德斯鸭鹅肝酱、珍珠鱼、紫菜、牡蛎和生菜、罗西尼牛肉、法国烤鸡或脆面包:Taillevent的美食将是合意的和小资的,为客户提供忠实的镜子。当天的味道将在调味品中找到。很难不提服务:它以同样的方式延续了今天在巴黎大型独立餐厅中几乎失去的传统,有不少于15名厨师、5名糕点师,最重要的是有17名酒店服务员。Taillevent为某些精英提供了一面令人放心的镜子,以及一种必然被截断的感觉,即没有什么变化。
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4.7/5
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The establishment renewed.
Le Taillevent is an institution, even its wine list is legendary. When you set foot there, passing the voiturier, you set foot in a just renewed two stars establishment. Honestly, you have to enjoy the ceremonial. First, they ll take care of your coats, then you’ll be escorted through the hallway, then through first room, and finally to the main dinner room, greeted all the way long by members of the staff. This is pure classism. Yet, classism wouldn’t feel right if it felt old and out of fashion. Here, the place has been renovated is a very elegant manner, stressing the classism but removing the unnecessary ornements from past to add designed elements. For those who reads my reviews, it’s very similar to the « trente trois ». Beautifully integrated. And if you add the perfectly balanced Michelin star service (close, warm and yet distant enough), you feel exactly what you should : You have all the Michelin multistars code within a contemporary setting.
The question is: does the cuisine match the place? Yes. Just like La Tour d Argent or Lucas Carton, the task is daunting. But the chef manages the same balance the designer or the brigade de salle did: Classism with a dash of contemporary. So dishes are revisited, just the way they should ever be.
The crowd was a mix of business, couples and friends enjoying a great meal. The mood is very classic and upscale. Gentlemen do not need to wear a suit anymore, but I did think that the atmosphere calls for it.
It’s a solid 2 stars, I had a great experience.
Update 2022: Went back after a year. It’s called an institution because it’s stable. And it is. What I may have not praised enough in my previous review was the quality of the wine list, but the rest was as good as the first time. Don’t get me wrong, I did not have the same dishes. The chef does change the menu. Actually, you can compare the menu I took last year to the one this year. There’s movement, but as the famous quote says “Everything has to change so that nothing changes”. Those changes guarantee you that Taillevent will stay Taillevent.
Having said that I did prefer this time.
Definitely a very solid two stars